Glenn Canyon, Back-Haul Trip

When you arrive at Lee’s Ferry along the Colorado River in Northern Arizona you have two choices, you can float downstream with a permit or go upstream toward Glenn Canyon Dam. The dam is what holds in Lake Powell. This area is popular with trout fishermen (and women) and their motor boats.

Another way to enjoy it is with a watercraft that requires a  paddle to move forward like canoes, paddle boards and kayaks. One CAN paddle upstream via river eddies but a better option, and one that gets you 15 miles to the dam in short order, is to take a back-haul upstream. River companies run a daily trip from the dam to Lee’s Ferry. Going upstream the boats are empty so they make a buck charging customers to haul their boats back up river to begin a two-day float down to the Ferry.

We begin our trip, however, at Cliff Dwellers Lodge on Highway 89 a few miles past the turn-off for the Ferry.

Just before you reach the modern accommodations you can see remnants of very unusual buildings that were built under the overhangs of fallen rocks by Blanche Russell in the 1930s. She ran a restaurant and gas station here.

The following morning we met at the Ferry and loaded our boats onto two river rafts.

We encountered these two paddle boarders loaded with camping gear. I think this was before the SUP craze hit.

We did this trip the end of October in 2011. The days were warm but the nights got quite cold. The water here is 46 degrees as it comes out from the bottom of Lake Powell when released by the dam. The ride up to the dam was chilly but the scenery was magnificent.

You can tell we are approaching the dam area by the seepage coming out of the sandstone. This type of rock is porous and with the pressure of the water behind the dam there are seepage spots all around it.

There she is, Glenn Canyon Dam. Regardless of your thoughts on dams in the American West, she is still quite a structure to behold. This is also a popular trout fishing location.

Rubber boots are a must as standing in 46-degree water is no fun. After off-loading our boats and filling them with gear we shove off to see what we can find.

A few of us stopped at this spot to check out some local art.

A short hike up a trail brought us to a wonderful petroglyph panel. What’s sad is to think about how many of these sights are buried upstream under Lake Powell.

We camped one night here, complete with a porta- potty. Nights were cold and the winter gear definitely came out.

The next morning an eager trout fisherman heads upstream in his power boat.

The next day we floated down to Water Holes Canyon.

We hiked back as far as we could until the terrain got a little sketchy with boulders and cliffs.

I found this rock…

and this stick.

Here we are at the take-out at Lee’s Ferry. It was a quick Friday night, Saturday to Sunday float but well worth it. It’s definitely one we need to do again.

Happy shooting!

2 thoughts on “Glenn Canyon, Back-Haul Trip”

  1. What a great memory! I loved that trip! We have found eddy hopping up to Water Holes Canyon (4-5 miles from the Ferry) quite do-able in our kayaks. The hike there is superb… but let’s keep that little secret to ourselves (!).

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