Tag Archives: Grand Canyon

Elves Chasm, Colorado River

Today I’ll take you on one of the most popular and beautiful side canyon hikes Grand Canyon has to offer. On day five we pulled over to river left just above a small rapid at mile 117.

As we gathered on the beach to await our fearless leaders I glanced back at the river. That rock on the right looks a bit like an elf ear.

The walk up was fun as there were plenty of things to keep our attention including not falling off some of the bigger boulders.

The hike follows Royal Arch Creek which gives you little snippets of what you will find at the end.

Following a 10-15 minute hike/boulder scramble, we were treated to this: lovely, shaded grotto with a waterfall. Its emerald colored pool is perfect for swimming on a hot day.

Our guides were awesome in letting the shutterbugs of the group shoot the scene for a few minutes before letting the rest of our boat mates dive in. I managed to “work the scene” a bit by shooting it horizontal, vertical and moving a little to the right and left. It’s a pretty small beach and people were itchin’ to jump in.

I zoomed in here to try to isolate the water. I slowed my shutter as much as I could and still handhold the camera without too much camera shake.

This image shows the ledge you can climb up to behind the waterfall and jump into the pool.

 

As we began to gather and head out I walked ahead and turned around to capture the creek coming out of the pool in the distance.

As we emerge from the canyon the upcoming rapid is layed out before us. It was a spectacular side canyon hike and I was glad we got to see it before any other trips joined us at the grotto.

We loaded the boat and headed downstream. I had carried my camera on a Black Rapid sling to help prevent dropping it should I slip or need both hands to get over the boulders.

I hope you enjoyed this beautiful oasis in Grand Canyon. It always amazes me that in such a hot unforgiving environment such places exist.

Happy Shooting!

Colorado River through Grand Canyon, Animals

The third installment of my Colorado River trip through Grand Canyon, following time-lapse movies and boats, is a collection of the extraordinary wildlife, of which there was an abundance. Again, these were all shot with a Lumix Gx-8, 14-150mm.

I’ll begin with possibly my favorite bird on river trips…the crafty Raven. It is said that river trips are assigned a pair as you leave Lee’s Ferry and that they escort you down river, all 226 miles, to Diamon Creek take-out. I believe this could be true.

Every beach we stopped at for either lunch, camp or just a bathroom break seemed to have a welcoming committee of two Ravens.

They wandered camp and reminded folks to keep their belongings under lock and key, or at least secured in their dry bags.

Ravens are ballsy. This one snuck onto the boat with Amity, our river guide, standing right there, and hopped up and stole her granola bar! She was two feet, if that, away!

Here’s a pair checking out the beach to make sure everything is in order. They are smart, observant and brave.

At times I think they are more observant of their world than we humans are.

It didn’t take long before we saw our first group of bighorn sheep. I believe we saw some every day. The goal became to find ones with big horns.

This guy had a good set. We found one larger but the image was too blurry.

Here’s another pair I shot as we floated past.

At our last camp we watched Bighorn TV. It was great. We all lined up our chairs on a sandbar six inches under water and watched three sheep across the river negotiate the cliffs.

The deer weren’t as common. In fact, this may have been the only group we saw.

Lizards, however, were quite plentiful.

We found this guy at the Little Colorado. He was a juvenile and froze when we walked by. His mama came screaming out from the nearby cliff toward us to protect him. She stood her ground with us as baby wandered off to a safer location.

Look at the length of that tail!

I was out shooting rocks one morning, thinking I was alone. I went to steady myself on this rock and was surprised to find my little friend here. He never moved but had an eye on me the whole time.

This guy was a trained model. I found him while out shooting rocks and water in the morning light. He hung out, followed me and posed. His colors were beautiful.

Fire ants were pretty common in camp as well. The good news is they went to bed at sundown. A simple trap was also made. A small bowl was buried in the sand just at the level of the sand with a piece of food in it. The ants would drop down for the food and not be able to get out. Toward sundown, our guides would release the bowl full of ants back to the hill for bedtime.

No one on our trip fished. But I’m sure they would have had success had they attempted. This trout was patrolling the waters off of one of our lunch stops.

See the dark blob near the opposite canyon wall connecting the light and dark water? That’s a school of fish! Not sure what kind but at first glance it looked like some sort of plant life. This is at the mouth of Havasu Creek.

Snowy egrets…who knew? We also saw Great Blue Heron on several occasions.

A week after we got off the river a video appeared on Facebook showing a bear down at the river near Badger Rapid. A BEAR!  We also saw a snake in the kitchen one night but he moved to fast for me to shoot it. I also had a scorpion attached to my lifejacket one morning but he skedattled before I could capture him as well.

The animals were a fun daily surprise, especially in a landscape as harsh as this and filled with still rocks.

Stay tuned, next week I will explore with you Elves Chasm, a lovely little side canyon waterfall.

Happy Shooting!

Colorado River through Grand Canyon, Boats

I spent eight days on the Colorado River recently in Grand Canyon. It was a relatively short trip but the experience was massive. It will take me a while to process it and all of the 4,800 photographs I took. I’ve decided it’s best to break it down into topics. This week’s topic…boats.

Lee’s Ferry (for more on the Ferry see my January 3rd post) is the point at which all Grand Canyon river rafting adventures begin. As you stand at the boat launch and gaze out at the Colorado River you have two choices; you can go upstream or float downstream. Downstream requires a permit from the park service, upstream does not.

Where is this information going? BOATS! If you’re on the river you need to be on some sort of flotation device. I love boats and this blog post is designed to share some images I’ve taken of just that…boats on the Colorado. Some are from a recent raft trip I had the good fortune of floating on and a couple are from a “backhaul” trip I did a few years back where you can be taken to the dam with your own boats and then float down. Enjoy.

These first three images are from the backhaul trip. It was my first experience seeing paddle boards on this river. They were fully loaded and had been camping. The thing that would hold me back from such an adventure is the fact that if you take a dive the water is a chilly 46 degrees coming out of the bottom of the dam.

Here is a collection of our own vessels taken on that trip. We had a couple of canoes, sea kayaks, regular kayaks and an inflatable kayak or two. People have been known to paddle upstream. They eddy hop, paddle from eddy to eddy to reach their destination. It’s hard but doable.

This area of the river, upstream from Lee’s Ferry,  is famous and popular with the fly fishermen. It’s quite common to see motorboats heading upstream to fish. Companies also do a “daily” where they take passengers on large inflatable motor rigs down the 25 mile stretch of Glenn Canyon from the Dam to Lee’s Ferry. Those are the boats we load up and pay to haul our boats back up to the dam for a two-day float. We stay at the campgrounds along the river.

Here we are at the ferry on the morning of our launch. To my delight, an OARS Grand Canyon Dories trip was loading up and preparing to launch as well. I love these boats. They are my favorite on the river. They are made of wood and each one is a work of art. I drifted away from my group and couldn’t help myself. I had to shoot a few at the boat ramp.

My favorite picture is the one at the top of this post. Late in the trip we floated past several lined up on a beach.  I was able to catch just the right angle of their pointed bows with their names painted on the sides.

They launched before we did so when we passed them I was able to capture them silently floating in the canyon while we motored past in our big, 36-foot inflatable S-Rig.

There are two ways to get a permit. You can go as a private boater or with a company. There are also two ways to get DOWN the river, motor or rowing. I’ve had the pleasure of rowing my own boat down this river twice. It is a feat I am very proud of because it wasn’t easy. I have great respect for boatmen and women who can safely and skillfully guide their passengers through these sometimes treacherous waters.

This boat has a long story attached to it. If you’re interested go to The Ross Wheeler. 

Kayaking is another popular way to experience this river but rest assured, the water is not always this smooth.

I like this image because it shows you the scale of Grand Canyon. The boats in the distance are two large motor rigs heading to camp in late afternoon. They look tiny.

This is the boat we traveled on, a 36-foot S-rig. No idea what the S stands for.

 

Here’s another type of boat, a Snout Rig, that looks small in the distance. This is a private party riding on a medium sized motorboat to get them down river.

  Shade is a premium while on the river, especially at camp. These boats had the right idea. Temperatures are many degrees cooler the closer to the water you get. One does not want to hang out on the hot sand in the sun until shade adorns the camp. Trust me on this one.

A lot of folks like to bring “duckies” on Canyon trips to float on the calmer sections of water. They tend to get loaded and tied down for the big rapids.

Here’s another boat seen on the river occasionally. It’s a bit of a catamaran; two pontoons connected with a deck for rowing and gear.

I’m going to end where I started, with my beloved dories. I’ve never ridden in one but I  think they are such pretty boats. If you want a great dory story read The Emerald Mile by Kevin Fedarko, it’s amazing.

All of these images were taken with my Lumix Gx-8, 14-150mm lens. I stored it in a small dry bag for the rapids and that seemed to work pretty well, except for the fact that it was hard to get in and out. I have to find a better system for ease of access.

Don’t be afraid to take your gear on epic trips, that’s why you have it. Just do the research and be sure it’s safe from weather and thieves.

Happy Shooting!!

The Colorado River through Grand Canyon, Timelapse

May 30th was my last day at Killip Elementary school in Flagstaff. I am now retired following an amazing and rewarding 27-year career in public education. The next day (the actual last day of school) I launched on an eight-day, one boat motor trip through Grand Canyon on the Colorado River.

It was a magical trip with 13 close friends and family. We were guided down the river by three amazing humans, a boatwoman, swamper and assistant. Their stories will come later.

In thinking through how to blog about such a wonderful experience I became overwhelmed with the thought of not giving it the attention it needs. By writing a one week blog and calling it good. I can’t do that. I came home with over 4800 images, memories to last a lifetime and stories that could be turned into a book. I don’t write books, I write short little weekly blogs.

SO! To help me process through the images and the experience I will be posting for the next several weeks, or until I run out of images and stories to share. As I process the images and become inspired by them all over again I will post, so hang on for the ride as you join me on my river trip and let ME be your guide this time.

I’ve never posted videos here before but I took a lot on this trip. 110 to be exact. This first batch is some fun time-lapse images I captured of everyday chores at camp.

Here is the bag line. It used to be called the fire line when I started river running in the mid 80’s but now it’s a bag line. It is a super efficient way to move our piles of stuff. Yes, even here in Grand Canyon we spend time managing stuff. There are 28 blue bags, one is a sleep kit complete with sleeping bag, tarp and sheet. The other is our “need it only at camp” bag. On an airplane, you would check it into the belly of the plane.

We all slept on these pads. They are quite comfy, especially with sand as the base. No one used a tent…ever. The boat crew slept on the boat.

Ahhh, the cots. The eleven folks that slept on these swore by them. Ellen, Craig and I did not. But they did create opportunity for more bag lines.

Apparently, I can’t arrange the videos in any order I want. Bummer. I would have this one last because it is the last thing we do…get on the boat. Each morning at loading time we chose our locations. Sometimes we mixed it up, sometimes not. The front of the boat got the wettest, even in little riffles. The boatwoman, Amity, steered from the rear of the vessel while Will and Tierany (the rest of the crew)  traveled around the raft checking on the passengers. The area closest to the motor well was deemed the Chicken Coup. Folks there stayed pretty dry except in the large rapids. Then they got sprinkled. 😉

We went with Arizona River Adventures out of Flagstaff. They provided us with many things, one of which was a chair. 14 of these things fit in that green dry bag. It wasn’t busy but the Johnson brothers, Craig and Scott, became the chair packing experts. They figured out exactly how to prepare the chairs and insert them into the bag successfully. Thank you, Craig and Scott!

Here’s another bag line set at every four seconds. It goes fast, maybe too fast, but also includes putting on sunscreen.

Timelapse is a lot of fun. It can be very gear oriented and time-consuming to do professional quality imagery or, like me, you can use the settings on your camera and either hand hold or use a tripod. I believe these were all handheld but then again I wasn’t holding them for 30 minutes, only a few.

I took just two cameras with me, a Canon S120 with a waterproof housing and my Lumix Gx8 with a 14-150 mm lens in a small drybag so I could access it and shoot on the boat. Both shoot timelapse, the Canon shoots it in miniature effect.

Pull out your manual and look up timelapse on your camera. If you have a choice start with a frame every two seconds and set it to stop after 300 frames. My camera then makes a video with the stills but keeps the stills separately. I will erase them later. It’s fun to shoot things that take a long time. Start with making dinner or the bed or washing dishes or something. It’s a lot of fun.

Happy shooting!

 

Grandview Trail, Grand Canyon

Grandview Trail on the South Rim of Grand Canyon is one of my favorite day hikes. It’s short, relatively speaking for the canyon, at only three miles down. But don’t be fooled, it’s a steep three miles.

Grandview takes you down to Horseshoe Mesa which you can see below coming out of the right side of the image.

This mesa has had a lot of activity on it in the last hundred or so years. There is a cave on the left side as you look at it here, also old stone buildings and several mine shafts.

It’s a little unnerving to walk along and see this sign. So, like, really? On this side of the sign you won’t get radiation poisoning but take two steps and you will?

The ground was strewn with beautifully colored rocks. I spent some time there photographing them. I could have spent a lot more time catching all of their colors and patterns as the light shifted throughout the day. The lichen also came in at least three different colors, white, yellow and orange.

I have to admit, getting the grand landscapes of this canyon is always elusive to me. Now, granted, I wasn’t there at sunrise but still, trying to capture the breathtaking beauty of the canyon is not for wimpy photographers. I, therefore, tend to focus on the details of the canyon. Much of which is overlooked, I think, as people focus on it’s vastness.

Take for example this survey marker. I think these are cool because I imagine a team of surveyors in the canyon collecting data and wonder how old it is and how difficult it must have been to haul their gear up and down the trail.

This little guy is a good reminder to watch the trail as much as the scenery. He’s not a rattler but he caught our attention nonetheless.

It s my goal in life to capture closeups of bees and or other insects in motion. It’s not easy, especially with the camera I brought. I brought my little Canon S120 point and shoot so I could have it in my pocket for quick access.

I shoot these a LOT. I love agave with their soft green leaves,  red tips and great patterns.

All of these images were shot without a tripod, mid morning to early afternoon with a Canon S120 point and shoot in RAW files. So don’t delay, go  find a trail, shoot some landscapes but don’t forget about the details!

Happy Shooting!!

Plateau Point, Grand Canyon

We (my wife and I) live in Flagstaff, AZ which means Grand Canyon’s South Rim is a little over an hour away and makes for a glorious day of hiking. We like to go to the canyon for training hikes to get in shape for longer hikes. One such day found us at the South Rim heading down Bright Angel Trail toward Indian Garden, which you can see in this image as the splash of green on the right side in the smaller canyon, then out to Plateau Point. We did it with full 25# packs. It is six miles down which means six miles back up…12 total.

 

Here’s another image of Indian Gardens but showing the switchback of trail heading down. My constant dilemma when doing activities such as this is…WHICH CAMERA DO I BRING?!?  Weight is almost always the first concern. I believe strongly in the “Less is More” philosophy so I only own three camera bodies, two of which are identical. I have a mirrorless Lumix Gx8 times two with four lenses and a Canon S120 point and shoot that shoots RAW images.

These images, however, were taken before I switched my setup to something lighter and easier to travel with. These images were taken with a Canon 40D and 35-70mm lens. Far heavier than I am willing to travel with these days. This is the view from Plateau Point, a 1.5 mile jaunt from Indian Gardens, to the river below. If you look closely you can see a river raft parked at the large beach on the left.

Here’s the thing about this blog: I focus on  taking images when most travelers would be shooting, during the day. In a perfect world I would be here at sunrise and/or sunset, but in a traveler’s life, that is not realistic. Time is short and many things and places are crammed into a short period of time so it is my intent to show that, even though conditions are not ideal, it is still beneficial to bring your camera and snap some pictures.

The canyon had some wildflowers  in May when we hiked. Wildflowers are always worth a stop and a shot. Here I played with a wide open F/stop to blur the canyon in the background.

The Prickly Pear cactus were in bloom as well as the cactus below. The splashes of color on the hike were wonderful to see.

So take a camera, even on long hikes. Be aware of weight so you bring the correct one and don’t regret hauling it around. And then don’t forget to take it out and shoot with it!!!

Happy shooting!

Havasu Canyon, Creek and Falls

Last week you read about the hike down into the canyon and into Supai Village. Two miles beyond the village are the first waterfalls (Navajo and Havasu) and just beyond Havasu Falls is the campground. The campground stretches through the canyon to the top of Mooney Falls. This post shares images of both Havasu and Mooney falls plus a couple of other treats.

We didn’t take the time hike back to Navajo Falls on this trip or beyond Mooney Falls to Beaver Falls. We stayed close to camp, mostly due to me recovering from my consecutive falls (no pun intended) and spend our first full day exploring Havasu Falls, which you see here. At this time of year it was always in the shade which dulls the color of the water just a bit. I actually shot this image on our way to the trail that leads out of the bottom of the falls. I happened to glance back to get one last view of it and spotted this great curving piece of wood which leads your eye right up to the pool.

Here is another nice example of putting something in the foreground to lead you into the picture. These were all hand held images with my point and shoot that stayed securely in my pocket until needed.

I worked my way across the pool and onto the opposite shore. As I approached that side I got a few of the falls not everyone sees. The mossy green rocks behind it caught my attention. I shot this one as a horizontal as well with the focus being more on the rocks. Water fall images don’t have to be vertical! Here’s my wife, Ellen, standing in the pool I walked across. There was a little beach entrance you can barely see in the way upper right corner. Here’s a fun picture of a leaf floating by. I loved the way the water was making the light dance across the colors of the leaf. It was moving in the current and because of the water my auto focus wasn’t working as quickly as normal. We must have picked this leaf up and replaced it in the current at least seven times!

That night, while hanging out at camp, I set up my point and shoot on the little Joby Gorillapod and aimed it at the sky. I set the ISO on 3200, f/2.8 with a 30 second exposure and here is what I got. I was pretty please!

Heading to the spring to gather water for the day. The early morning light casting  long shadows on the trail and giving a nice halo around the hair.

On our way to the spring we ran across this tree with a crazy root system. Check it out! It seems to all be in the air with the trunk plummeting down into the ground. Cottonwoods are insane trees.

This is the rushing water we were camping by. Hearing the little rapid all night made for some nice nights of sleep. It’s also an example of where logs end up in flash floods. The dirt on the far bank is another camp.

The next day we headed to Mooney Falls. Given my shaky state of affairs and how sketchy the climb down to the bottom is, we didn’t make it all the way but it was beautiful nonetheless.

This is Ellen emerging from one of the tunnels just before we had to start holding chains and descending down wet and slippery rock. I do love silhouettes.

And there she is, Mooney, in all her glory. I really like  this picture because of the frozen travertine waterfall in the foreground. These rock falls are all around both Havasu and Mooney Falls.

So, even backpacking, you can take beautiful images. If you don’t want the weight, learn to use your smart phone. If you have a good point and shoot, bring it! And, I highly recommend the Joby Gorillapod as a lightweight, functional tripod for the great outdoors.